On the western bank of the Guadalquivir, bordering Triana, you’ll find the Los Remedios district, an upmarket, conservative area made up of the neighbourhoods of Los Remedios and La Tablada. The district is best known for playing host to the Fairground of Seville’s Feria de Abril, which is hidden in the southern Los Gordales woodland. For one week a year, it’s filled with a thousand casetas that receive 500,000 visitors every single day. Originally, Los Remedios was a floodplain of a meander of the Guadalquivir River until, at the beginning of the twentieth century, work was begun to dry the area out and allow it to be developed. In 1937, one of Franco’s Lieutenant Generals, Quiepo de Llano, fostered the development of the area, which used to be known as Obra Nacional, home to lots of military men.
Crossing the San Telmo bridge we reach the Plaza de Cuba, dominated by the ‘Zero Mile’ monument, commemorating the Magallanes-Elcano expedition of 1519, which sailed around the world and returned to Seville in 1522. This used to be the quay known as Muelle de las Mulas, and from here the ships set off exactly 500 years ago. Here you can also find the Carriage Museum or Museo de los Carruajes, an interesting look at dozens of carriages set in a historic building. It was originally the Los Remedios Convent of the Order of the Carmelitas Descalzos, built in 1575 on the site of a hermitage that sailors would visit before setting off for the Americas.
The Plaza de Cuba marks the beginning of some of Los Remedios’ most important streets. Calle Betis runs along the banks of the Guadalquivir to Triana bridge and is lined with tapas bars and restaurants. Calle Asunción is a lively pedestrian shopping street that cuts through the neighbourhood, ending at the gates of the Feria fairground. On Calle Juan Sebastián el Cano you’ll find a chapel on the inside of an old tobacco factory, headquarters of the Hermandad de la Columna y Azotes-Las Cigarreras. On the same street, by the river, there are various sports clubs like the Círculo Mercantil, the Círculo de Labradores and the Club Náutico or Yacht Club.
Lastly, the Avenida de la República Argentina is a wide avenue that crosses the neighbourhood from east to west to peter out at the Parque de los Príncipes, the largest green space in the area. On this avenue you’ll find the Torre de Los Remedios, the first Sevillian ‘skyscraper’ (66 metres), built in the sixties.
Seville’s Feria de Abril kicks off with the “prueba del alumbrao” (switch-on) when thousands of light bulbs are turned on to illuminate the gates to the fair. It all ends seven days later with fireworks over the Guadalquivir.
Discovering Seville’ gastronomy is one of the best ways to get to know and enjoy this city. In the city’s restaurants, you’ll find dishes that are just as succulent as they are memorable.