There are places designed with a compass set at relaxation, fun and the horizon. Costa Ballena, between Rota and Chipiona in the province of Cádiz, is one of those resorts that did not grow organically like Andalusia’s old white towns, but were planned from the outset to be a holiday paradise. With its avenues lined with palm trees, its golf courses leading down to the Atlantic Ocean and its built-up areas open to the sea breeze, Costa Ballena is the result of an idea to offer an unhurried coastal resort, with no stress, no cars or traffic jams, but with everything a visitor could want in summer. Although it lacks the age-old history of other Andalusian towns, its youthfulness is part of its appeal. You can holiday here without having to do anything except choose between the beach and the swimming pool, or between the beach bar and a stroll.
- The context of the town of Costa Ballena: the mega-development born looking out to sea
- What activities to enjoy in Costa Ballena: from golf and cycling to afternoons paddle boarding
- Beaches in Costa Ballena: fine sands, protected dunes and an endless Atlantic horizon
- Where to eat in Costa Ballena: flavours of the sea, Cádiz style
- What you can see near Costa Ballena: from Atlantic lighthouses to Jerez vineyards
The context of the town of Costa Ballena: the mega-development born looking out to sea
Costa Ballena is not a town in the strict sense of the word, but a giant tourist development that stetches between the towns of Rota and Chipiona. Its origins date back to the 1990s, when the House of Casa de Orleans-Borbón — the owners of this area historically known as La Dehesa Ballena [the Ballena Meadow] — sold off part of the land for tourism development. That was when Andalusia’s regional government pushed through an ambitious project aimed at creating a top-level tourist resort in the south of Europe.
The result was a resort planned down to the very last detail, with vast green areas, artificial lakes, kilometres of cycle tracks, and architecture designed specifically for residential tourism. Costa Ballena is scattered with developments with evocative names such as ‘Los Delfines’ or ‘Bahía Luz’, each with its own swimming pools, gardens and direct access to the beach. Here, everything has been designed with relaxation in mind.
Unlike other ‘accidental’ tourist resorts, Costa Ballena was designed from scratch with one clear idea: combining sustainability, high-quality infrastructure, and privileged access to nature. Here there are no high-rise buildings to block out the sky, or noisy roads to break the midday silence. Everything has been planned so that people can enjoy their holiday in a kind of pleasant bubble by the sea.
What activities to enjoy in Costa Ballena: from golf and cycling to afternoons paddle boarding
One of the jewels of Costa Ballena is its golf course, designed by none other than the golfer José María Olazábal. The Costa Ballena Ocean Golf Club boasts 27 competition holes and 9 par-3 holes, and frequently hosts national and international tournaments. Here, golf lovers will find not only a course that is the highest quality from a technical point of view, but also one with an exceptional setting: streets surrounded by lakes, migratory birds that swoop over the wetlands, and with the backdrop of the ocean like a permanent postcard.
But if golf isn’t your thing, no problem. Costa Ballena is heaven on Earth for those who prefer to do their exploring on wheels. Its 8 kilometres of cycle tracks connect the whole development, and mean that you can travel from the most populated area to the seafront promenade without leaving the saddle. You will often see whole families on scooters or electric carts or simply walking together at sunset, when the whitewashed façades are tinted with gold.
The most adventurous can go for a dip in the sea. On the beach, there are paddle boarding and kayaking schools that offer classes and equipment hire by the hour. The calmness of the swell in this area makes it ideal for novices. And if the wind speeds are suitable, there are also catamaran sailings around the Cádiz coast, with the chance to see dolphins. For those seeking quieter activities, the complex offers spas, tennis courts and yoga centres, many of them belonging to hotels and private developments.
Beaches in Costa Ballena: fine sands, protected dunes and an endless Atlantic horizon
Costa Ballena’s chief natural asset is its beach: a long strip of golden sand that stretches for several kilometres between Rota and Chipiona. The beach offers plenty of space and a calm swell, making it ideal for families, and is surrounded by a system of dunes that has been designated a protected natural space. Access is via wooden walkways that cross the native vegetation without damaging it — a measure that helps to conserve this ecologically valuable setting.
Costa Ballena Beach offers a full range of services: showers, life guards, beach bars, and sunbed and sunshade hire. Best of all, even during the peak season, the beach is never full. Its spaciousness and the residential model of the resort mean that it is rare to find it overcrowded. You can still put your towel down without stepping on anyone.
A little further west, towards Chipiona, you will find Tres Piedras beach, the perfect place to watch the sun go down between the rocks that emerge from the sea like natural sculptures. Towards the east, in the direction of Rota, the coast remains unspoilt, with quieter areas that are ideal for those who like to be alone on the sand with no sound except the lapping of the waves.
Where to eat in Costa Ballena: flavours of the sea, Cádiz style
In its short life, Costa Ballena has succeeded in attracting a gastronomy that brings together the finest that the Cádiz coast can offer. As you move away from the beach, lots of restaurants operate within social clubs, hotels or retail centres such as Los Olivos and El Lago. Here, you can find everything, from seafood rice dishes and salads prepared using locally grown produce to international cuisine.
But it is in the beach bars that you will find the unforgettable flavours. The Ohana Tres Piedras beach bar is a flagship thanks to its fresh chargrilled fish and its laid-back atmosphere, perfect for enjoying dinner with your feet on the sand. Other outstanding places are La Manuela, with Spanish tapas, seafood, cocktails and dishes inspired by Asian cuisine, and the Chinini Beach beach bar, with impressive dishes such as octopus with pancetta, tuna in banana leaves, and stir-fried salmon.
And for those who like to broaden their horizons, the restaurants of Rota and Chipiona, famous for their fish and seafood, are just a few minutes’ drive away. Here, Sanlúcar lobster, fine wine and seafood stews are essential items on the menu.
What you can see near Costa Ballena: from Atlantic lighthouses to Jerez vineyards
One of Costa Ballena’s greatest attractions is its strategic location. A few minutes’ drive can take you to places full of history and charm. Rota, for example, has a historic quarter with a Moorish feel about it. Highlights are the Castillo de Luna, the church of Nuestra Señora de la O, and the seafront promenade full of tiled murals. Chipiona is famous for its lighthouse — the tallest in Spain — and for being the birthplace of Rocío Jurado. The beachfront church (the Santuario) and the provisions market are essential visits.
Moving inland, a 20-minute drive will bring you to the first Marco de Jerez vineyards. From here, you can follow wine tourism trails to bodegas such as Barbadillo, Lustau and González Byass, where learning about the biological crianza wine developing under its cap of ‘flor’ [yeast] is a true cultural experience. We also recommend you visit Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the Guadalquivir meets the Atlantic, and from where you can cross by barge and follow a trail into the Doñana National Park.
If you are travelling with children, the Chameleon Interpretation Centre in Chipiona, the Bonanza salt flats, or a boat trip from Puerto de Santa María to Cádiz are good options to round off an active and memorable holiday.
