Few would disagree that Chiclana and the province of Cádiz produce some of Spain’s most characterful wines. The winemaking method used here is predominantly the crianza and solera system. This ageing method guarantees both uniformity and quality for these particular wines.
Chiclana does not lie within the Marco de Jerez area delineated by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Its bodegas, however, come under the umbrella of the Jerez Wines Governing Council.
Chiclana’s bodegas have more in common than simply their method of winemaking. They also share a common landscape, and one whose character is largely determined by its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Chiclana’s wine growing terrain shares many of the characteristics of the land which lies within the bounds of Jerez’s Golden Triangle: a high salt content, humidity borne on the sea breeze, a year-round mild climate, and a great many hours of sunshine.
- Context: the area’s wines
- Wine tourism: between the wine and the salt
- Recommended bodegas, within and outside the town
Context: the area’s wines
To understand Chiclana’s wines, and therefore to enjoy to the full a visit to its bodegas, there are several things you need to know.
The first is that liqueur wines, those produced within the Marco de Jerez, are made in a very different way from still wines or table wines. Most importantly, they are fortified with alcohol at a specific point in the manufacturing process, which may precede or follow the fermentation of the must.
The second difference is that the maturing process can take several years, or even decades. The wines are aged by a system of crianzas and soleras [blending of two-year-old wines with more mature wines] that pass from the ‘botas’ higher level casks to the lower casks in percentages and at intervals established as the result of many years of study and experimentation.
The particular variety of wine produced is determined by the ageing period, the maturing method (which may be biological or oxidative), the blending performed by the winemakers responsible for each cask, and other factors (deliberate or accidental), which may include the grape variety used. And, of course, the quality of the grape.
The main wines produced by Chiclana’s bodegas are fino, amontillado, palo cortado, oloroso and PX (Pedro Ximénez). Having said that, the area also produces a significant amount of Moscatel (sweet) wines as well as red and white table wines.
Wine tourism: between the wine and the salt
In recent years, Chiclana’s bodegas have realised the importance of raising awareness of the exceptional wines they make. As a result, they are offering more and more activities, including those that go beyond a simple visit to a bodega and a tasting of a few of the wines.
Thus, bodegas such as Manuel Aragón, which we will say more about later, offer visitors the opportunity to enjoy, at their own premises, a tasting menu of traditional Chiclana dishes, paired with their own wines. Visitors can also walk around their vineyards, to learn about how the type of soil used to grow the grapes and the effect of the salty winds that blow from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, as both affect the character of the wine grown here.
An interesting and informative visit for the wine tourist is the Centro de Interpretación del Vino y la Sal [Wine and Salt Interpretation Centre], in the Plaza del las Bodegas, close to the market. The Centre displays lots of items related to both sectors: the production of salt (from the salt flats that lie around the town) and of wine. The interactive displays and various audiovisual presentations make the visit even more enjoyable and instructive.
Recommended bodegas, within and outside the town
Chiclana has several family-run bodegas, some producing wine for themselves, where the production method is a secret handed down from one generation to the next. But others are open to visitors and offer tastings of their different varieties. These are the best known:
Primitivo Collantes (Ancha, 51)
With a history dating back almost two centuries, this family-run bodega is a mecca for wine lovers in Chiclana. Tours take in its centuries-old wine cellars, and you can enjoy gems such as the Arroyuelo fino and the elegant Socaire.
Manuel Aragón “El Sanatorio” (Ctra. Cádiz-Málaga, km 12,200)
The mention of “El Sanatorio” immediately evokes its huge character and the purest Chiclana tradition. Founded in 1896, this bodega produces blends with real spirit, such as the famous Gloria Moscatel. A range of activities is offered, both inside and outside the bodega. They also have another bodega in Chiclana’s historic quarter.
San Sebastián (Mendaro, 15)
A small, but charming bodega that offers a truly authentic experience — enjoying its Los Cuatro Moscatel, one of the area’s not-to-be-missed wines.
Cooperativa-Unión de Viticultores Chiclaneros (Madera, 5, Polígono Industrial El Torno)
Brings together dozens of local winemakers dedicated to preserving Chiclana’s winemaking tradition. Tours include a detailed explanation of the winemaking process, and you can taste wines such as the Fino Chiclanero, an emblem of the town.
Bodega El Carretero 1857 (Sor Ángela de la Cruz, 26)
This bodega offers the opportunity to have a meal among the rows of wine casks. Traditional Andalusian and Cádiz cuisine, perfect for enjoying in the form of tapas.
